We got up at 5.30 for a 7a.m. arrival and were very pleased to see slightly unexpected blue skies.
After a bit of a wait for disembarkation we drive off on into Spain. We stopped nearby at a roadside café for a Spanish breakfast, which was still-warm tortilla for Dave and a lomo sandwich for me, both served with freshly squeezed orange juice, good coffee and with Spanish local chatter in the background. A nice contrast to the ferry!
After that the sky got a bit more brooding and we drove past some gorgeous hilly and forested scenery.
After a while, Dave wanted a break so we pulled off at random and came to Aguilar Del Campo. We initially drove past an enormous ugly Gullón biscuit factory and bleak industrial units and then the historic centre emerged in the distance. It was stunning and we had a stroll around, wandered past the old city walls and Colegiata San Miguel and bought mantecados and ciegas biscuits in a cake shop. Most things were closed, probably due to a regional fiesta or that it was only 8°.
We then climbed up to the primarily 15th century castle ruins (with some dating back to the 7th century) via a church with a 12th century bell tower. There were great panoramic views across the town and the surrounding landscape and loads of lovely poppies scattered down the hill.
On the way back down I got chatting to a Spanish lady who gave us loads of hints for the next stage of our trip. She told us that Tordesillas, where we were headed, was where Juana 1 de Castilla, commonly known as ‘Juana la Loca’ (elder sister of Katherine of Aragon and sister-in-law to Henry VIII) had been confined in the Royal Monastery/Convent of Santa Clara.
In brief: Juana was the daughter of the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella (Fernando and Isabel) and, due to an unexpected string of events, came to succeed to the throne and was nominally queen but was not considered capable of ruling by her father, husband and son amongst others, who in fact exercised the power. She was thought to have shown instability, hence the name ‘Juana la loca’. Coincidentally, she is the protagonist of the novel I’ve just bought for my holiday reading, so I shall (and Dave) enjoy learning more about her!! (The Last Queen by C. W. Gortner)
We eventually got to our campsite, Camping El Astral, just over the River Duero from Tordesillas, by which time the sun had reappeared. It’s a nice, spacious one with good facilities, although there was no hot water, we were told, but we did get a discount. Reception was friendly and helpful and there’s a small campsite shop. The campsite restaurant was a buzz of Spanish families still lunching at 3p.m. – a good sign, so we booked it for tonight. It’s a short walk to the historic centre with good buses, so we shall explore tomorrow.
We did very little in the afternoon – we basically had a rest then strolled over to the bridge before dinner. It was really warm right up to dinner at 8pm (a bit early for Spanish dinner!). The restaurant was excellent and we ate stuffed piquillo peppers and shared a mixed grill. Since one of the objectives of this trip is to educate ourselves a bit more about wine, we had a glass of Iturria tinto 19 recommended to us by the waiter who said he doesn’t like wine but likes that one!!!
Words of the day for the language learners and the foodies:
Amapola = poppy (because it sounds nice!)
Mantecado = shortbread cookie (try some when in Spain!)
(https://spanishsabores.com/mantecados-recipe-traditional-spanish-shortbread-cookies/)
Goodness me, what a lot of information in your latest blog.
The word for poppy is lovely, I might even remember that.
It was great you had an informative chat with a Spanish Lady which will aid your exploring tomorrow.
Here in Cornwall today it has been exquisite again.
On Wednesday evening I heard the cuckoo, I was overcome with delight, a regular sound in my childhood, but now so seldom heard.
Time for bed. Love to you and Davexxx
Glad you have exotic weather in Cornwall! 😃☀️xxx