After a leisurely start at the camp site, we headed for Zamora as, even though we’d realised most attractions would be shut on a Monday, the guide book described it as a ‘living museum of Romanesque architecture’, so we thought it sounded like a great place to explore even if we could only see the buildings from the outside!!
Dave found a lovely free car park down by the river and we strolled along to explore. The first surprise were the ‘aceñas de Olivares’, which were reproductions of tenth century water mills used for grinding flour, pounding metal or producing cloth. There was a detailed exhibition space with the mills and a fantastic view across the river to the iconic stone bridge which used to be part of the Silver Route. (Via de La Plata)
The second surprise was a large stork’s nest on top of the first church that we saw. We’d seen a lot of these when we lived in Madrid but never one with a great view of a baby stork peeping out!! ( I did get some photos but I cannot get my images off my camera at the moment so we are having to rely on phone pictures)
The third and most significant surprise was getting access into the San Claudio de Olivares Church. We got chatting to a gentleman called Antonio Martín Alen who had they keys to the church and let us in to have a look.
He was president of one of the cofradías in Zamora, which is renowned for its Holy Week Easter processions and he then also took us a little further along the street to show us where that particular brotherhood (https://capaspardas.com ) store a lot of their possessions. At the rear we saw hundreds of lanterns as one of the traditions in Semana Santa is a midnight procession carrying lanterns. He also showed us the float on which the statue of Jesus that we’d just seen in the church is carried. Amongst other fascinating objects were the cape he wears, the cross that starts the whole procession, a poster that he designed, some of the instruments used and an amazing image taken by a well-known photographer, which we initially thought was a painting. As you can see from the photo, Antonio was in this image. (He’s the one on the left)
The brotherhood has 150 members and has a 40 year waiting list!! Some cofradías have thousands of members. Over half of the population of Zamora are members of cofradías. He is also president of a larger cofradía which was previously led by his father and grandfather before him. He explained all about the traditions to us and it was really fascinating. He then gave us a terracotta bowl with the crest of the brotherhood on it and a CD of processional music. We strolled back to the church and insisted on making a contribution!!
After dropping the gifts in the car, we ambled along to the Plaza Mayor and sat in Restaurante Zamora in the the shade of the stunning Iglesia San Juan Bautista. Dave tried the speciality rice dish from Zamora, arroz Zamorana, and I went for a mixed salad and pork cheek. Both were very tasty. The final surprise was actually called surprise (sorpresa). This is a particular cut of pork that he hadn’t tried before and which lived up to expectation.
We then headed back to the Tordesillas campsite, doing a quick supermarket shop and a detour via Toro. Toro was the scene of one of the most important events in Spanish history, the famous Battle of Toro, which took place on the 1st of March 1476, between the Castilian-Aragonese troops of the Catholic Monarchs and the and the Portuguese-Castilian forces of Afonso V and Prince John of Portugal. It was a major political victory for the Catholic Monarchs assuring Isabella the throne of Castile.
It was nice and warm today so we spent the evening sat outside at the campsite and had a snacky dinner.
Words of the day:
Románico = Romanesque
(… not to be confused with Romano= Roman)
Cofradía = brotherhood or cofraternity, which, in the context of Semana Santa Holy Week processions are Catholic groups dedicated to religious training, worship and charity that focus on penitence and show their penitence publicly during Semana Santa processions as they carry floats through the streets.
Carrillera, carrillada = cheek (pork – de cerdo, or beef- de res)
Sorpresa = surprise OR a cut of pork that tastes like pork cheek, allegedly from just under the eye socket!
I love reading your blog!
Castilla is so beautiful ❤️❤️
Where are you heading to next?
Medina del Campo today and then onward to tour the Rioja region! xxx
Great thanks for all the photos.Love the old bits of Romanesque carving on the pillars
Yes – apparently it is very rare to see a male mermaid/ merman like that one! 😃
Your report is like a very interesting history lesson. You have learnt so much already about your chosen area.
There always seem to be a surprise around the corner.
May it long continue.
Love Jx🦉
Yes, it was certainly a day with a difference! 😃
Love your blogs , especially the photos.Too much info to respond to it all but what an amazing time you are having and every day full of info and beautiful sights , that includes the food . 😀
Love A.S xxx